How to Get to Busan

By , May 2, 2013 1:53 am


Busan, Korea’s second largest city, is only about 45 minutes away from Ulsan, making it a popular weekend destination for Ulsanites. There’s plenty to see and do, from art museums to shopping to dining and drinking. There are plenty of ways to get to Busan from Ulsan, but your choice partly depends on where you want to end up. Because of it’s inner-city mountains, traveling from one part of the city to another can take a long time, so choosing the right drop-off point can help cut down on hours spent on subways. (Prices and schedules are subject to change).

Nopodong - The northern point of Busan, very close to Yangsan. The beginning point of Line 1 on the subway, this is a good place to head if you want to hike Uisangbong peak, or check out Beomeo Temple. From Nopodong station to Centum City (Shinsegae Department store, BEXCO, Busan Museum of Art) or to Nampodong (shopping) or Jalgachae (giant fish market) takes about 50 mins.

Buses to Nopodong:

Ulsan city bus 1127 begins at Taewhagang Station, runs through the Hakseong and Seongnamdong areas, and then heads up past City Hall and Gonguptap, before heading out of Ulsan through Mugeodong, down to Nopodong. For some reason, the listing on the UlsanOnline doesn’t include Nopodong, but it does stop there, so if you want to know the route details, use the Bus By Number Guide, and type in 1127 (don’t hit enter).

Ulsan city bus 1137 beings at Taewhagang Station, and stops at multiple places between Samsandong and Mugeodong before heading down to Nopodong. It doesn’t stop at every stop, however, so check the UlsanOnline Bus guide for more specific information. It stops many more times than the “Non-Stop” bus, however, so while it’s cheaper (approximately 2,700 won), it takes well over an hour.

The Non-Stop Intercity Bus leaves from the Intercity Bus Terminal in Samsandong (near Lotte Department Store) every 7 minutes. It takes 1 hour. This bus stops in Mugeodong, just before the SK gas station at the junction of the main Mugeodong road and Hwy 7, across from Munsu Stadium (not the SK gas station across from the lake at Munsu stadium). It also stops several times along the route, including in Yangsan. It costs approximately 5,000 won.

There’s a second Intercity Bus from the Bangeojin/Ggotbawi Bus Terminal in Donggu, which stops several times, including at the Hyundai Department Store. It also costs approximately 5,000 won. If you’re returning this way, make sure you specify Bangeojin, as asking for Ulsan will drop you in Samsandong.

Busan city express bus 2100 runs from the Ulsan Bus Terminal through Samsan, Okdong and Mugeodong, past Nopodong and Beomeo Temple, ending at the Samsin Traffic Base in Busan’s north end. Again, as a city bus, it stops frequently, making the journey well over an hour, though the cost is low, at approximately 2,500 won. The route is available in the UlsanOnline Bus Guide.

Busan city express bus 2300 also runs from the Ulsan Bus Terminal, following a similar route to 2100, and ending at the Samsin Traffic Base. Check the route in the UlsanOnline Bus Guide to see the variations. Again, the cost is 2,500 won.

Haeundae – Home to the fabled beach of the same name, which draws literally millions of visitors each day in the summer. It’s undergone an extensive makeover in recent years, so instead of tiny alleys lined with fish restaurants, it’s now broad avenues lined with trendy restaurants and bars, making it a popular destination even after the sun goes down. It’s also a good jumping off point to head to Centum City, BEXCO (7 mins by subway), the Busan Museum of Art (5 mins by subway) or Gwangali Beach (15 mins by subway), which is the new happening night-spot in Busan.

Buses to Haeundae:

From the Intercity Bus Terminal in Samsandong, you can take a nonstop bus (직행), which picks up at the Gonguptap/Grand Park bus stop, then heads to Busan. It stops first at the Jangsan subway stop on Line 2, and then on to Haeundae (third stop on line 2) You can also take a slower bus that winds its way through Ulju-gun and Gijang-gun (the wilds of Ulsan and Busan cities) before arriving at Haeundae. The nonstop bus takes about 1hr, while the slower bus takes about 1hr, 30 mins. Buses run every 20 minutes. It costs approximately 7,000 won. The Haeundae Bus Terminal is across the road from the train station, and about 30 seconds from the subway entrance. It’s a throwback to old Korea, that hasn’t yet caught up to the revitalized neighbourhood it serves.

There’s also an Intercity Bus to Haeundae from the Bangeojin Bus Terminal in Ggotbawi, Donggu. Like the bus to Nopodong, it will stop in several places, including by the Seobudong Hyundai Department Store before leaving the city.

Trains to Haeundae:

Trains run through Taewhagang Station in Samsandong to Haeundae Station (and past, into Bujeon Station in downtown Busan – see below). The Mugunghwa stops at all of the small stations between the two cities. For instance, you can board the Mugunghwa in Hogye, Deokha, or Namchang if you live outside the city center.  It also stops at the surfing beach, Songjeong, if you’re looking for some waves. Tickets are 3,400 and the trip takes about 1hr. As of the writing of this article, it appears the Saemaeul train, which is comfier and stops less frequently, no longer runs the Taewhagang-Haeundae route. There is some information on schedules and routes available on UlsanOnline, also.

Downtown Busan - Nampodong is a popular shopping destination, with a mixture of high-end brand names and street stalls filled with cheap knock-offs. There’s also a huge Lotte Department Store there now, with plans for a 100+ story apartment building above it. Nearby is the Jalgachi Fish Market, which is the largest in Korea (possibly Asia), and the Ferry Terminals with boats to Japan (from the International Terminal) and local islands, including the Jeju overnight car ferry (from the Domestic). You can get to this area by taking any of the above-mentioned routes and then hopping on the subway to the desired stop, or you can cut down on your subway time by using one of the following methods.

Trains to Downtown:

Take the KTX from Ulsan Station, near Eonyang, to Busan Station, in the heart of the city. It’s 20 minutes, and costs 8,400. From there, the subway to Jalgachi, Nampodong or Jungang (closest to the International Ferry Terminal) is about 5 minutes. It’s also about 12 minutes from Seomyeon, the downtown shopping area. Don’t forget to factor in the travel time to Ulsan Station, though (Mugeodong – 20 mins, Samsandong/Seongnamdong 30-40 mins, Donggu/Bukgu 1hr)

You can also take the Mugunghwa train from Taewhagang Station to Bujeon Terminal, the stop after Haeundae. Bujeon is one subway stop away from Seomyeon, and only 20 mins from Jalgachi.

So – there’s the breakdown on how to get to Busan, depending on where you’d like to end up. Keep your eyes open for upcoming articles on what to do in Busan, so you’ll know exactly where you want to go.

Thanks to everyone on UlsanOnline Facebook group for their input into this article, as I haven’t take the bus to Busan in years, prefering trains whenever possible.

How to Get to Incheon Airport

By , May 1, 2013 12:29 am


We’ve had a lot of enquiries recently, on the Facebook group, about the best way to get to various places. Most of the basic info on routes is available in the intercity travel guide, but it can be a little confusing. This time, we’ll take a look at the options for getting to Incheon Airport (reverse this advice to get to Ulsan).  (Prices and schedules are subject to change)

Incheon Airport

Bus: The Incheon Airport Bus runs from the Intercity Bus Terminal (not the Express Bus Terminal), near Lotte Department Store in Samsandong. It takes approximately 5 hours, and leaves 3 times a day: 24:30, 05:40, 10:00. If you’re buying a ticket for the midnight bus, be clear about the date (ie, the “Saturday night” bus would actually be Sunday morning), and that you want a ticket for the Airport (gong hang) not just Incheon city (nowhere near the airport). Tickets for this bus have recently increased, with the night bus now being 47,000, and the day buses slightly cheaper. If you have a lot of luggage, this way can be the smoothest journey, as there are no transfers involved. As there are only 3 per day, tickets sell quickly, particularly for the midnight bus, so you may want to buy them in advance, particularly during busy travel seasons (Chuseok, Seolal, August holiday, etc).

Train: The KTX runs from Ulsan Station (not Taewhagang Station) in Eonyang to Seoul Station. From there, you transfer onto the Airport Railway to Incheon (or Gimpo) Airport. It takes approximately 2hrs 20 minutes Ulsan to Seoul,  costs 47,500 (66,500 First Class), and 30 trains run between 05:22 and 22:52. The Airport Railway has both express and commuter trains. The commuter has 10 stops, takes approximately 55 minutes, and costs 4,050. The express is non-stop, takes 43 minutes, and costs 14,300 (Special fare until Dec 3, 2013 – 8,000). Total travel time is therefore approximately 3.5 hours. It’s also important to keep in mind the travel time to Eonyang – it’s approximately 20 minutes from Mugeodong, 30-40 mintues from Samsandong/Seongnamdong and 45min – 1hr from Donggu. If you live in Donggu or Bukgu, it may make more sense to take the local train from Hogye Station to Dong-Daegu Station, and catch the KTX from there.

Plane: There are no direct flights from Ulsan to Incheon. Ulsan’s flights land in Gimpo Airport, instead. Both Korean Air and Asiana have flights from Ulsan Airport, near Hwabongdong in Bukgu. Korean Air has 5 flights between 08:30 and 20:55, for 69,000. Asiana flies twice a day (12:55, 18:25) for 89,000 (though discounts are often available). Flying time is about 45 mins (plus check in and security of course). Since the Airport Railroad was built (see in Trains, above), it’s easy to get from Gimpo to Incheon Airport (35 mins). There is also an Airport Shuttle Bus that runs between the two Seoul airports that takes about 35 mins, and costs 7,000. If you live in Donggu or Bukgu, this may be easier than taking the KTX.

If you are traveling TO Ulsan, the Incheon Airport website has detailed information on how to find the buses or trains. It’s also one of the most traveller-friendly airports in the world, with lots of clearly marked signs and helpful Info Desk staff.

How to Get to Seoul

By , April 30, 2013 2:14 am


We’ve had a lot of enquiries recently, on the Facebook group, about the best way to get to various places. Now, most of the basic info on routes is available in the intercity travel guide, but it can be a little confusing. You can take two kinds of buses, two kinds of train or one of two airlines to Seoul – which way makes the most sense? In this article, I’ll go through each way to get to Seoul, and you can decide which is right for you. (Please note, prices and schedules are subject to change. Also, the locations of the bus terminals and stops, airport, and train stations are all available on the Interactive Map under Transportation.)

Seoul

Bus: The Intercity bus runs from the Intercity Bus Terminal, near Lotte Department store in Samsandong, to Dong-Seoul Bus Terminal. It takes approximatly 4.5 – 5 hours (depending on traffic), and costs 22,500 (23,900 at night). There are 30 buses per day, between 6am and 1:10am. Dong (east) Seoul bus terminal is near the Gang-byeon subway station (line 2), north of the Han river, just south of Konkuk University, and quite far east. Line 2 does run to City Hall (Seoul Museum of Art, Deoksu Palace), and the Euljiro 3-ga stop is quite near the Myeongdong shopping district. It’s also just one transfer (at Sindang) to line 6, to get to Itaewon.

The Express bus runs from the Express Bus Terminal right next to Lotte’s Youth Plaza, to the Express Bus Terminal (subway line 3) in Gangnam. It also takes approximatly 4.5 hours, but costs 29,000 (32,500 at night). There are about 42 buses per day. Here, you’re only a few stops from Apgujeong, the trendy Gangnam shopping and restaurant district. You can also take line 3 to Chungmuro and transfer to line 4 – one stop to Myeongdong, or two stops in the other direction to the massive Dongdaemun History and Culture Park (also a shopping area). Stay on line 3 to Jongno 3-ga to check out the Insadong traditional shopping street, or to Gyeongbokgung, an old palace. Transfer to line 6 at Yaksu to get to Itaewon.

If you live in Mugeodong, Okdong or Guyeongli, you might want to head to the Shinbok Rotary bus stop. Tickets are sold in the little booths at the end of the sidewalk.

Train: The KTX runs from Ulsan Station in Eonyang to Seoul Station, downtown Seoul. It takes approximately 2hrs 20 minutes and costs 47,500 (66,500 First Class), and 30 trains run between 05:22 and 22:52. Of course, unless you live in Eonyang, Ulsan Station is a bit of a drive – approximately 1 hour by bus from Donggu, 40 minutes from Samsandong/Seongnamdong, 20 minutes from Mugeodong. Seoul Station is a central location, on line 1, line 4, the Airport Railroad, and the Gyeonggui line. It’s fairly close to Itaewon, Myeongdong, City Hall, Namsan Park (with Seoul Tower), Namdaemun (more shopping), Insadong and Hongdae, the university party area by Hongik and Ewha Woman’s Universities.

The slow train runs from Taehwagang Station in Samsandong to Cheongnyangni Station in Seoul (on line 1, a few stops east of Dongdaemun or on the Jungang line). It departs twice daily, at 08:28 or 23:48, and takes 5.5 hours. Tickets are 26,000. Line 1 gives you easy access to Dongdaemun, Jongno/Insadong, and City Hall, with easy transfers to Itaewon or Myeongdong.

Airplane: Both Korean Air and Asiana have flights from Ulsan Airport, near Hwabongdong in Bukgu, and Gimpo Airport in Seoul. Korean Air has 5 flights between 08:30 and 20:55, for 69,000. Asiana flies twice a day (12:55, 18:25) for 89,000 (though discounts are often available). Flying time is about 45 mins (plus check in and security of course). Since the Airport Railroad was built, it’s easy to get from Gimpo to Seoul Station (20 mins), or out to Incheon Airport (35 mins). If you live in Donggu or Bukgu, this probably makes more sense than taking the KTX.

If you have a smart phone, download the app “Jihachul” (Subway) for Apple or Android. It has all of the Korean subway systems (Seoul, Busan, Daegu, Daejeon, Gwangju), and you can choose English, Hangeul or Japanese as your operating language. It not only gives you help with route planning, but also links you to maps so you can see what’s in the area of your stop. It will also tell you which station is closest to you when you’re above ground. Korail has an Android app  or  an Apple app  for easy bookings and discounts on tickets, and the iKorway app (Apple only)is good for subways and buses in most Korean cities.

Temple by the Sea

By , April 20, 2013 6:49 am


Haedong Yonggungsa, Busan, by Jamie Vickers
“If you’ve seen one you’ve seen them all!” is something I’ve heard many people say when talking about temples in Korea, but I would even urge the Korean temple naysayers out there to take a trip to Yonggungsa, a temple by the sea.
 
It’s not the biggest of temples; it’s not the most ornately decorated. But Yonggungsa stands on the coast with the waves lapping up against its foundations and it is one the most beautifully situated temples I have seen in Korea. Yonggungsa was founded in 1376 but was rebuilt in the 1970’s as many have been.  This temple is also said to have been built in honour of the divine sea god of the East Sea who visited the Buddhist teacher Naong during the Goryeo dynasty.
Even if you don’t manage to catch a glimpse of that all too familiar sight of Buddhist spirits riding off over the coast on their sea dragons, this temple is still well worth a visit for the views alone.
Yonggungsa is within easy reach of both Ulsan and Busan. Coming from Ulsan, you should first head to Haeundae taking either the train from Taehwagang station to Haeundae station or the bus from the intercity bus terminal in Ulsan to Haeundae bus terminal; both are only a short walk from the subway station. Once you are in Haeundae, Yonggungsa is just a 20 minute bus ride on the 181, which you can catch from the steps of exit 7 of Haeundae subway station.
From there the bus leaves dynamic Busan behind, winds through a few coastal towns and you need only wait until you hear Yonggungsa over the speakers before you hit the bell and you arrive outside at the entrance of the temple area. And with preparations for Buddha’s birthday under way, now is the perfect time to go and see Yonggungsa by the sea.

Coming up in Ulsan!

By , April 17, 2013 1:56 am


By Deirdre Madden

Festival season is upon us, and Ulsan is getting ready to host several events celebrating the area’s traditions.

April 25th-28thUlsan Whale Festival. This controversial festival is held at the end of April every year to celebrate Ulsan’s heritage as a whaling city (not problematic) and it’s current whaling culture (problematic). The petroglyphs at Bangeodae are evidence of a whaling culture here going back to Neolithic times, when men in canoes would hunt whales with spears – an impressive feat. Though Korea has recently abandoned plans to restart catching whales under the “scientific experiment” loophole in the international whaling ban, there are still people who exploit the fishing “by-catch” practice, in which fishermen may or may not intentionally set nets in whale migratory routes in order to “accidentally” catch, kill and sell them to whale restaurants. The festival offers whale meat for sale. Please remember that buying it actively supports the inhumane practice of whaling. There are reinactments of Neolithic whale hunts and whale watching tours near Jangsaengpo, and other cultural activities in the Taehwa Park.

A non-controversial way to get involved is to join in the Whale Boat Races, a fundraiser for T-Hope Korea’s new Women’s Shelter Project. Teams of 18-20 people will compete Saturday morning in fun races. Come down to the Taehwa River Park (next to the Taehwa bridge) to cheer, or sign up via the above link. All proceeds from this event will go directly towards building a women’s shelter for battered and abused women in Ulsan.

To get there – The Taehwa Park is under and beside the Taehwa Bridge and Rotary. Use the UlsanOnline bus route by destination, and type in “Taehwa” (don’t hit enter) – there are about 20 buses that go past Taehwa Rotary bus stops. There’s also a shuttle bus between the Taehwa Park, the Jangsaengpo Whale Museum, City Hall and the Lotte Hotel.

Ulsan is also host to the Onggi Festival, May 2nd-5th. Nothing controversial here – it’s all about pottery. Particularly, it’s about the traditional Korean Onggi, which are the brown clay pots used for fermenting kimchi and other food. There are lots of hands-on activities, cultural events and even a concert. It’s held at the Onggi Village in Oegosan, on Hwy 24, towards Busan. To get there, take 507 or 715 bus from the stop across from the Lotte Express Bus Terminal (same side of the road as Bennigans/Outback). Get off at Gosan Village Bus Stop. (고산마을; Gosan Maeul). The official site is Korean only.

May 4th-10th, the Professional Windsurfers’ Association International Tour will hit Jinha Beach. Every year, windsurfers  from around the world converge on Jinha Beach to take advantage of the perfect conditions. Go out and support your national team. Just be prepared for the sand-blasting wind-blown look. Perfect conditions for windsurfing are not ideal for picnicing on a sandy beach, unless you like your food extra-crunchy (and I don’t mean in a granola kind of way). Jinha Beach is just past the Industrial Complex, on the south side of Ulsan city. Buses 405, 715 and 1715 go past.

May 17th-18th – the T-Hope Rock and Row Dragon Boat Festival will take to the Taehwa River, in support of the Women’s Shelter Project. Gathering teams from all over Korea, this festival will be two fun filled days of river-sports and international cooperation. Festival activities will include food and music, a beer garden and more.

May 17th-18th – The Ulsan Cup soccer tournament will be taking place at the Sibrideabat riverside pitches in Taehwadong. Teams from all over Korea will be gathering to compete in this event that has taken place since 2008. Go out and support the local Won Shot Wanderers as they defend their title.

May 17th is also Buddha’s Birthday in Korea, so every temple will be covered from head to toe with lanterns, in celebration. It’s a great time to get amazing photographs, day or night. It’s best to go a week or so before the 17th, though, as on the day, the temples will be absolutely packed with people, and often the lanterns are taken down as soon as the festivities are over. Tongdosa, Seoknamsa and Unmunsa are some beautiful temples out in the mountains around Eonyang, but there are temples in the city that put up a nice display, too. There is a huge temple, Jung-gwang-sa, on the road between the Shinbok Rotary and the Taehwa Rotary that goes all out with their lanterns. Jason Teale, UlsanOnline’s resident photographer, wrote an article on his photography site, The Sajin, with great tips on taking the best photos at this time of year.

May 18th-19thTogether Day and Multicultural Festival, Taehwa River Park. A weekend of celebrating Ulsan’s growing multicuturalism. There will be booths for many of the different countries, lots of food, cultural performances, etc. Head down to check out the diversity of Ulsan! (I can’t find a website for this festival, but check out last year’s review).

Lots to do in Ulsan over the next few weekends! Hope to see you out there!

 

Madame Tussaud’s Wax Figures in Busan

By , March 21, 2013 1:43 am


This week will be your last chance to check out the world famous wax sculptures of Madam Tussaud’s Museum, in Busan. The exhibition has been on the 6th Floor of Haeundae’s Shinsegae Department Store, in Centum City. Open from 10am – 8pm weekdays, and 10am-9pm Friday-Sunday. On display since June 2012, the exhibition is closing March 31st – so if you like creepy, waxy impressions of your beloved stars and historical figures, head down to Busan a.s.a.p. Shinsegae is located at the Centum City subway stop on Line 2 (the one that runs from Haeundae Station).

To get there from Ulsan:

Bus – Take the Haeundae bus from the Ulsan Intercity Bus Terminal (45 min express, 1:30 milkrun). Just outside the Terminal entrance are the stairs to the subway.

Train – Take the slow train to Haeundae from the Taewhagang Train Station (40-50 mins). The subway entrance is just outside the Haeundae Station.

Car – Take the express highway from Mugeodong to Haeundae (45 mins). Follow the signs to BEXCO. Shinsegae is about one block past BEXCO, and one block to your right.

Cherry Blossom Festivals

By , March 14, 2013 2:39 am


By Deirdre Madden

No flower is more closely associated with the ancient, mystic Far East than the cherry blossom. The delicate pink bloom bursts forth in abundance for a few short days each spring, letting us all know that the cold days of winter are ending, and the blast furnace of summer is approaching. After their initial trumpeting of spring, they then flutter to the ground, rosey flurries carpeting the grass shoots. Korean cities and towns have spent probably billions of won replanting their streets with these trees that are glorious and special for about 4 days out of the year, and perfectly average trees the other 360. In fact, they’re even kind of a nuisance when their tiny, sour cherries ripen, and cover the sidewalk with dark purple stains and slimy rotting fruit. But I digress. In late March or early April, the trees truly are a splendor to behold, and I highly recommend spending a day or a weekend celebrating their beauty, and the end of winter.

I'm pretty sure I used this photo in last year's article, too.

Here’s a rundown of the Cherry Blossom Festivals happening around Korea. Keep in mind, organizing a festival based on when a tree will bloom is tricky business, and despite every effort on behalf of the organizers, sometimes their timing is off – particularly in these recent years when weather patterns have shifted. More than one festival has had to be postponed or even cancelled due to uncooperative trees.

Jinhae – April 1-April 10. 2 million tourists decend upon this small, seaside town on the other side of Busan to see their blossom-lined streets. This festival also commemorates Korea’s most admired seafarers – Admiral Yi Sun Shin, who led the Korean navy to win several important battles against the Japanese during the Imjin War in the late 1500′s. He was a very clever man, and if you’re into war history, I recommend checking him out. To get to the festival, you can either take a bus or a train to Jinhae and then walk a short distance to the downtown area. See the Korean Tourism Site for clear directions. Their official site is only in Korean.

Jeju – April 5-7 – Head to the Island for the King Cherry Blossoms. They can be viewed in both Jeju City and Seogwipo. Their official site is also only in Korean.

Gyeongju hosts the Cherry Blossom Marathon (Korean or Japanese only) on April 13th – a spectacular run if the blossoms are out. Even if you’re not a runner, head up to see this city in its prime during the blossom season. The whole city is filled with the trees. The area around Bomun Lake is particularly lovely.

Hwagae – Early April – The small town of Hadong, near Jirisan hosts this festival, where the best blossoms appear along the “Marriage Road… If lovers walk down this road holding hands, they will get married and stay happily together forever.” Worth checking out with your sweetheart. Their official site has Engrishy.

Yeouido, near Seoul has a festival from April 12-18. The site is Korean only, but directions can be found on the Korean Tourism Site.

Jecheon City hosts the Cheongpunghoban Cherry Blossom Festival (site in English) from April 19-21

Of course, you can easily enjoy the blossoms without having to head to a festival. Ulsan blooms beautifully  - particularly along the stream in Mugeodong (Mugeocheon) that runs from the McDonald’s to the Taehwa River, near the Samho Bridge. In the past few years the city has redeveloped this former ditch into a beautiful walking path, and when the cherry trees blossom, it is breathtaking. Hakseong Park near Shinae is also lovely if you hike to the top of the hill, where the Japanese Fortress used to be. There are also plenty of trees on average streets, in Ulsan Grand Park, and out in the mountains.

The former ditch - this isn't the best bit

Just remember to take advantage of them when you spot them. The trees are in their prime only for 3-4 days, and a big windstorm or heavy rain will shorten that. And if you miss them in Ulsan, head north! They bloom up to a week later the further up the peninsula you go.

 

DMZ Tours from Panmunjom Travel Center

By , March 10, 2013 12:43 am


By Jason Teale

Let’s face it, if you hear the word “Korea” in the news it is probably following the word “North” and most of what people know about it comes from the Korean War. So it is not a far stretch of the imagination to find that there are a lot of tours heading to the Korean Demilitarized Zone or DMZ.

Recently, I had the pleasure of tagging along on a tour of the Joint Security Area (JSA) run by the Panmunjom Travel Center.  For those looking for a great tour of the DMZ, this is the tour company that you should seriously consider.

Located of the 6th floor of the Lotte Hotel in Seoul, their office is easy to get to and English-speaking staff will be there to assist you in every way. The tour bus leaves from the hotel, which is only 1-stop away from Seoul station, making it easy to get to for travelers from Ulsan.

What sets this tour apart from the rest is that you will travel with a North Korean Defector for part of your tour. This is not a gimmick, but a way to understand the situation and hardships that the people of North Korea face. During my tour I realized that the DMZ is a lot more than just some buildings and soldiers, but it is division between people as well. Talking to the (formerly) North Korean lady on the tour also taught me that even though they have made it to the South, the fight is not over, as her family still lives in North Korea.

The Tour Program

The tours all start from Lotte Hotel, which is located near Seoul City Hall. Depending on what package you choose, buses will leave either at 8:30 or 9 am but all will return around 4:30 pm.

I went on the Panmunjom Tour to review it and compare it to the other tours of the DMZ that I have been on. While the last tour that I went on was anything but memorable, this tour seemed to have a lasting impression.

We first hit the Mt. Odu Unification Observatory. This is your standard place to look across the Imjin River and to get your daily dose of propaganda. However, it was here that our special guest told her sad story as we sat in a recreation of a North Korean classroom. It was challenging to come up with decent questions as my mind tried to grasp all that this woman went through.

 

Following the observatory went went on to Imjingak. This is the area where families come to pay their respects to their loved ones in North Korea. Our tour guide was also clever enough to point out that the reason for the amusement park is in reality the time can be a bit boring for younger people and thus it is there to entertain the kids not to monopolize on the tourists.

Imjingak also has a beautiful park surrounding the main buildings and the “Freedom Bridge”. The Gyungui Train serves as a reminder to the fierce battle that took place here.  You will have time to take a look around, but on the day that I went it was raining, thus we didn’t stay at Imjingak for too long.

Following our bulgogi lunch we set off for the JSA. Our guide explained various points about military life for the young boys who have to serve their country and talked us through what to expect.

Our first stop was Camp Bonifas, where we changed buses and watched a short video about the area. Then it was off to the JSA. We were taken to the famous bright blue T-2  buildings that straddle the border of North and South Korea, all the while under the careful watch of the ROK soldiers.

We took one last look at North Korea and I am sure all of us took that iconic shot of the two blue buildings and the soldiers in their fighting stance. Before we left, they took us on a short tour of the JSA, stopping at various points along the way like the famous “Bridge of No Return”, and then it was back to Camp Bonifas to change buses. There is a small shop to pick of some DMZ goodies and products from North Korea there, too.

Bridge of No Return

All in all, this trip was extremely interesting and done is a timely manner. Points of interest were explained very clearly and the tour guide was quite knowledgeable about the area. Having a North Korean defector gave a more human face to the tour and really added to what could have been a boring part of the tour.

Tours and Prices

  1.  Panmunjom tour 77,000won (9:30am-4:00pm)
  2. Combined tour (Panmunjom+3rd infiltration tunnel) costs 120,000won (8:00am-4:00pm)

The reservation needs to be made at least 3 days in advance. Passport needed on the tour day. You pay on the tour day. Visitors pay nothing extra beyond the tour price. **Lunch is provided (vegetarian meal available).

Contact Information

Panmunjom Travel Center

6th floor, Lotte Hotel, Seoul

02-771-5593

email: jsa33@Korea.com

Web: www.panmunjomtour.com

According to the Panmunjom Travel Center, all tours are currently going ahead as scheduled with out interruptions. 

 

Marching into Spring

By , March 5, 2013 1:33 am


After a long, cold winter, the peninsula is springing to life (see what I did there?) with festivals. Celebrate the returning warmth and colour and explore the area at the same time.

Spring!

Flower Festivals:

The Cherry Blossom gets all the press, but don’t overlook these other beautiful trees! The first blossoms of the spring are the Apricot trees, and there are several Festivals being held in their honour:

Jeju Hueree Maehwa (Apricot) Flower Festival is being held from Feb 20 to Mar 10.  Held at the Seogwipo Hueree Natural Park, this festival isn’t just about blossoms. There’s also a black pig show and a goose show! How can you miss that? Jejudo can be reached by airplane, from the Ulsan Airport, or by ferry from the Busan Domestic Ferry Terminal. From Jeju City, you can take a bus to Seogwipo.

Gwangyang International Maehwa Festival also celebrates apricot blossoms from March 23-31. Seomjin Village in beautiful Jeollanamdo plays host to this festival. The village is home to the largest number of apricot trees in Korea. There are buses to Gwangyang Terminal, and from there, take a taxi or shuttle bus into Seomjin. The official website is only in Korean.

If you prefer to celebrate the blooming of the apricot trees with music, then check out the Ttangkkeut Maehwa Festival, at the Bohae Plum Farm (not apricot farm?) in Haenam-gun, Jeollanamdo. While the site hasn’t been updated for this year’s festival yet, last year’s boasted a wide range of music from traditional Korean folk to b-boys and rock, and included both Filipino and Chinese performances. It looks to be one of the few festivals I’ve come across that recognizes and celebrates Koreas blossoming multiculturalism. From the Haenam Bus Terminal, take a local bus bound for Sani-myeon (산이면) and get off at Bohae Plum Farm (보해매실농원; Bohae Maesil Nongwon).

Jeollanamdo is also home to the Gurye Sansuyu Festival, which seems to celebrate the yellow Cornus flower. Held in the Jirisan Hot Springs area on March 29-31, this festival mixes music and cornus fruit alcohol. From the Gurye Bus Terminal, take the Gurye-Jungdong (구례-중동), Gurye-Wolgye (구례-월계), Gurye-Namwon (구례-남원), or Gurye-Hwaeomsa Temple (구례-화엄사) route bus to Jungdong (중동). The Jirisan Mountain Hot Springs area is located 300m from the Jungdong bus stop. The official site is in Korean only.

And nominated for Festival Most in Need of a New Name, the Seogwipo Rape Flower International Walking Festival is taking place this March. Walking through fields of canola flowers, along the sea side, through the Jeju Sculpture Park, this sounds like one of the most picturesque festivals yet. The official site is only in Korean.

Tired of all the pretty flowers? Try the Jeju Field Burning Festival instead! On from March 8-10, it’s a tradition to pray for health and a good harvest in the coming year. It’s not all about burning stuff, though. There’s also folk games and other traditions, such as straw-rope tug of war, and a “lucky pig herding competition”. It’s held in the Saebyeol Oreum area on Jejudo. Check out the program of events on their official website (in English!).

Closer to home, check out the Tongyeong International Music Festival, in Gyeongsangnamdo from March 23-29. This festival focuses on orchestral music. Check out their website for more information (though the site doesn’t look like it’s been recently updated).

And finally, a last vestige of winter is the Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival, held from March 28-April 1. This is your chance to eat a food formerly eaten only by royalty. You can also take a cruise on a crab boat (probably not as scary as Deadliest Catch). It’s held in the town of Ganggu, in the Gangguhang Park area. While their official site has an English button, I kept getting an error message when I tried it.

 

Winter Festivals

By , January 14, 2013 11:42 pm


By Deirdre Madden

Don’t let the cold temperatures put you off exploring the countryside. Winter in Gangwando (the northernmost province on the east coast of South Korea) brings with it plenty of snow and ice festivals to help you make the most of the bright sunshine. Hot chocolate tastes even better when your cheeks are ruddy with cold and your toes are numb.

Hwacheon Sancheoneo (Mountain Trout) Festival – Jan 5 – 27

Happening right now in the town of Hwacheon-gun in Gangwando – an Ice Fishing Festival with all kinds of fun winter activities. Check out the skating, ice-sledding, snowmobiling and of course, try your hand at catching a mountain trout. Literally – there’s an area for fishing with your bare hands, as well as rod and reel areas.

This festival has entry fees for the different fishing areas (discounted if you’re an International visitor or a kid), and apparently has been listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Winter by CNNgo, a travel information site operated by CNN.

There are also Ice Fishing festivals in Pyeongchang until February 3rd, Gapyeong-gun until Jan 27th, or Inje from Jan 19th-27th, if you miss the Hwacheon one.  If you’re from a land of warm winters, and haven’t tried ice fishing or skating before, it’s well worth checking it out.

If fishing isn’t your thing, try the Taebaksan Mountain Snow Festival, which celebrates all things cold and white. From ice sculptures to sledding, skating to dog sleds, the town of Taebak does it’s best to show off how much fun winter can be. Taebaksan is known for having the largest annual snowfall in South Korea, and is also home to several decent ski resorts.

So head to Gangwando and explore what winter has to offer!