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By admin, January 25, 2012 12:55 am

It’s easy to just curl up under your blankets and sleep the weekends away when it’s cold outside, but remember – many of us came to Korea not just to work, but to experience a different culture half a world away from home. So bundle up and head on out to different corners of this wacky little country to check out how the locals celebrate winter!

Here are some of the upcoming festivals in February, from the Korea Tourism website:

Taebaeksan Snow Festival, Jan 27 – Feb 5 – Taebaek Mountain is one of the tallest in South Korea, at 1586 m in elevation. It’s location in the north east also places it in the way of the winter snows, making it one of the snowiest places in the country. To celebrate this, they make snow sculptures, offer dog sled rides, sledding, and other fun snow-based activities. From the Taebaek Bus Terminal, take the bus heading to Danggol, and get off at Taebaek Park. Click here for more information.

Inje Icefish Festival, Jan 28 – Feb 5 – Also up in Gangwando, the town of Inje holds it’s ice fishing festival on Soyangho Lake. Some of the activities include ice fishing, human bowling on ice (?!), ice soccer, and an icefish eating competition. From the Inje Intercity Bus Terminal, take a taxi or a free shuttle bus to the venue. Click here to find out more.

Jeju Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival, and Tamnaguk Ipchun Gut Nori (Spring Welcoming Exorcism of Tamna), Feb 2 – 4 – If you haven’t been to Jejudo yet, I highly recommend it. It’s a beautiful island with plenty of things to see and do, whether you prefer nature’s wonders or crazy tourist traps. Tamnaguk is the ancient name for Jejudo, and the Spring Welcoming Exorcism is a traditional ceremony to welcome spring and pray for a good harvest. The Fire Festival is also a traditional ceremony held to pray for health and a good harvest in the coming year. There will be hands on events and folk games to complement the traditional rituals and mask dances. At the Gut you will be able to make traditional masks and rice cakes. It would be well worth the weekend flight to Jeju to participate in these two festivals. From Jeju international airport, you can take a shuttle bus to the Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival, or Bus #200, 300 or 500 to the Gut. Here’s where to find out more about the Fire Festival, and for the Gut, click here.

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By Deirdre Madden, December 28, 2011 3:15 am

A few years ago, if you wanted to hit the slopes in Korea, there were few options. Then skiing and snowboarding became a popular pastime for wintry weekends, and now there are seventeen resorts, mostly in the Seoul or Gangwando areas. Korea has become the winter ski destination for the emerging middle classes in China and South East Asia, as it’s far less expensive than a trip to Japan or Europe.

from the Tourism Korea website

Though Korean ski hills tend to be crowded (as is everything in this compact country), it is a great place to try skiing or snowboarding for the first time. The beginner slopes are quite gentle, packages of lift tickets and rentals can be inexpensive, and you can even rent snow clothes (except gloves, hats and scarves).

Here’s a summary of the ski options scattered around the peninsula.

In the southern part of the country:

The closest to Ulsan is Eden Valley, located on the Yangsan side of Mount Sinbulsan. This resort opened a few years ago, so has had some time to work out the kinks of newly established attractions. They have seven runs (2 beginner, 3 intermediate and 2 advanced) that vary from 454 m to almost a kilometer and a half, which isn’t bad for a mountain that’s only 1200 m above sea level. To be honest, about the only thing going for this ski hill is that it’s only about a 45 minute drive from town. (Korean only site: Eden Valley )

Muju

Muju Resort is about 3 hours away, in Deogyusan National Park. Muju once had the longest run in Korea, with the intermediate-level Silk Road that starts at the peak of Mt. Deogyu and winds it’s way down for 6.1km. There are 22 runs on the mountain, out of two bases; Manseon base, and Seolcheon base. Muju also has an outdoor hotspring where you can relax after a day on the slopes. Taehwa tours run bus packages to Muju, though you’ll need a Korean speaker to book a spot for you. The site is in Korean, too. (Taehwa Tour )

Sajo Resort is located in the Suanbo Hotspring complex, in Chungju. It is a small resort, with six slopes and three lifts. Apparently it is not very crowded, and since it’s in a hotspring complex, it’s pretty convenient to chill out in the hotsprings after skiing. Here’s the slope map (in Korean only): Sajo Resort

In Gwang-gi province, close to Seoul:

Some of High 1's intermediate and advanced runs

Bears Town Resort, about 50 minutes outside of Seoul has 11 slopes, for beginner to expert skiers, and a 400 meter long sledding hill. Check out their English site: Bearstown

Star Hill Resort is also very close to Seoul, as it’s only 32km from City Hall. Each of its six slopes has its own lift, which cuts down on the lift lines. Star Hill Resort (Korean only)

Konjiam Resort has 11 slopes, and boasts of being the largest in the Seoul area. They also limit the number of skiers to 7,000 per day, to help cut down on over-crowding. They also use the Radio Frequency ID card for their lift passes and rentals. Konjiam also seems to have a larger number of Intermediate level slopes than most other resorts. Check out their English site: KonJiam Resort

Jisan Forest Resort is a 40-minute drive from the Gangnam area of Seoul. It has seven slopes and five lifts, including one with heated seats, which will be nice if you take advantage of their “Midnight Ski” from midnight to 4am. JiSan Resort

Yangi Pine Resort has 10 slopes, including a mogul run. Also a 40-minute drive from the city, their “super-modern ski ground” has slopes for “seven-grade skills”, whatever that means. This resort has room to grow, and has several “planned slopes” for the future. When looking at the slope map, keep in mind that the Green Lift is for Advanced skiers… Pine Resort

Gangwando is home to nine of Korea’s 17 ski resorts  –

Alpensia Resort is home to the 2018 PyeongchangWinter Olympics, and is therefore growing significantly over the next few years. It currently has 6 slopes, including one that is exclusively for snowboarders, and a high speed lift system. Alpensia Resort

On a green run at Yongpyong, on a not-busy-at-all day.

Yongpyong Resort is one of the original ski hills in Korea, and has had the time to develop an excellent facility. They have 28 runs, 15 lifts, and a “larger than regulation-size” half pipe. Six of their runs are approved for international competitions, and they have hosted the World Cup Ski Championships and the Winter Asian Games in the past. They even have a 15km cross country trail. YongPyong Ski

Daemyung Vivaldi Park has 13 slopes and 10 lifts. Famous for being the first hill in Korea to offer night skiing, this resort is apparently quite popular with young adults, and the runs and lifts are named “hiphop” and “jazz” as a reflection of this. The website doesn’t offer much information, but it is in English! (Scroll down – the design is terrible) DaeMyung Resort

Phoenix Park is another venue for the 2018 Pyeongchang Olympics, and will host the snowboarding and mogul skiing competitions. The Park has 22 slopes and an Extreme Park, with halfpipe, table top, round quarter and rails for any thrill seeking snowboarders out there. Twelve of the slopes meet International Competition standards, including the Aerial and Mogul runs. Phoenix Park

Sungwoo Resort is billed as Korea’s “snowboarding mecca”, as it has the largest snow park in the country, complete with a C box, an X box and a Wall box for board tricks. This is apparently the destination of choice for “hardcore” boarders, and meets the International Ski Federation (FIS) regulations for international competitions. HdSungWoo Ski

On a green run at High 1 on a semi-busy day

High 1 Resort claims the most natural snowfall in the country, and has been voted the most-preferred ski resort in Korea. The longest run is a gentle green run for beginners, which winds over 4km from the mountain top to the valley base. They are also home to FIS competition-approved expert slopes. They use Radio Frequency lift passes, meaning you can just stick it in your pocket, and it’s automatically scanned as you pass through the turnstiles. High 1 is also home to a para-ski school, and has hosted para-ski competitions. Taehwa tours and some other companies run bus packages from Ulsan to High 1, for about 100,000 won/day including lift and rental.  High 1 Ski Slope

Elysian Gangchon is about an hour outside of Seoul. The 10 slopes are all approximately a kilometer in length, and are serviced by six lifts. There’s also a snowboard park designed for beginner and intermediate riders. (Site is in Korean only) Elysian Ski

Oak Valley Snow Park boasts less crowding than other resorts, possibly because it is newer, and has yet to build a reputation. It has 9 slopes, with the majority being intermediate level. Oak Valley

At the top of a run at O2 Resort - last day of the season '09

O2 Resort is located in Taebaek Mountain Provincial Park, in the heart of the Baekdu mountain range, and is known as the first place the snow falls in the winter, and the last place it melts in the spring. It’s a small resort, with 12 slopes that mostly start all together at the top, split into different ability levels, and meet back together at the bottom. They have apparently also passed the FIS qualifications for international competition-level slopes. O2 Resort

Korea is not in the Alps, or the Rocky Mountains, but the ski hills here are well planned and maintained. While the facilities are high quality, the problems tend to be with your fellow skiers and boarders. As with Korean traffic, people here do not pay attention to what is going on around them, do not check up hill before merging onto the slope, and will often stop in the middle to take a rest (this mostly applies to boarders, but skiers aren’t immune to it). It’s also rather busy on the slopes most weekends. So to properly enjoy yourself, bring heaps of patience, and expect the unexpected. Or go midweek, if possible, when the crowds are in the cities. For more information on how to get to each resort, check out the Official Site of Korea Tourism, and Be Inspired : VisitKorea.or.kr

Enjoying a run at High 1

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By Deirdre Madden, November 18, 2011 12:50 am

As the prospect of yet another rainy weekend looms before us, I thought I’d run through the options of what you can do to entertain yourself in the Ulsan area, without getting too wet.

There are always places like the department stores, the covered street in Shinae, and cafes to wile away the hours on a rainy day, and Korea offers a few other things to do in the form of the various “bang”s (방), such as Nouraybang (song room) PC bang (internet cafe) DVD bang (rent a movie, watch it in a private room with a big screen tv, while reclining on a couchy/bed type thing) or Board Game bang (chose a game from the menu, and play with your friends).

Inside a DVD bang

If you’re in the mood to explore further afield than your own neighbourhood, try the Amethyst Cave in Eonyang, with it’s accompanying exhibit hall, which displays not only various amethysts paraphernalia, but also information on Dokdo – those tiny, rocky islands that play such a pivotal role in Korean/Japanese relations. (At Eonyang, take Hwy 35 south toward Tongdosa. Turn right on the road that heads towards Jakgwaecheon. There should be plenty of signs for the Amethyst Cave)

A few years ago, that might have been the extent of your options, but after a recent museum-building spree, you can also spend rainy days getting all cultured up. Most of these have been mentioned in separate articles, so check those out for more detail.

Ulsan Museum – next to Gonguptap Rotary and Ulsan Grand Park. This museum is so new, it doesn’t appear on the tourism maps of Ulsan, yet. It’s dedicated to the history of the Ulsan area, and has a great interactive section for kids. Take one of any number of buses that stop at Gonguptap, and walk past the Grand Park main gates. The museum is on your right, about 200 m up the road. The main exhibit is free, but special exhibits cost 5000 won.

Daegok Museum

Daegok Museum – Dudong area of Ulju district. Located next to the Daegok dam, this museum focuses on the excavated cultural heritage of the area. It also explains about the damn. Most of the displays had only Korean explanations when I was there, but it was still interesting to walk around. And due to it’s somewhat remote location, it was quiet and almost empty, which is something rare in this country. Take buses 1703, 1713 or 1723 to Eonyang and transfer. Buses 308 or 313 stop at Bangudaeipgu, or 318 stops at Daegok Museum. These are not frequent buses, so plan ahead! If you’re driving, take Highway 24 to Eonyang, then Highway 35 towards Gyeongju, and turn right at the Bangudae junction. For a more picturesque drive, turn off Highway 24 at the Beomseo exit, turn right, and follow the signs.  Entry is free.

Ulsan Petroglyph Museum – Dudong area of Ulju district. Near the site where the Bangudae petroglyphs lie submerged beneath the river, whose water has risen due to the Daegok dam, the Petroglyph museum offers a chance for you to see what the rock carvings look like, and explore the culture of the pre-historic people who left their mark behind. The museum is built in the shape of a whale, but this is hard to see unless you fly to it. It’s just up the road from the Daegok Museum, and is accessed from the same bus stop. Entrance is free.

Inside the Bangudae Petroglyph Museum

Jangsaengpo Whale Museum – Jangsaengpo industrial area. In case you haven’t noticed, Ulsan likes its whales. They’re kind of a big deal here. The area has a history of whaling dating back to the Neolithic age, and while the only whales caught these days fall under that “scientific catch” clause in the international whaling agreements, whale meat is still a specialty of the area. So why not spend a rainy day wandering through the belly of a whale, learning all about these magnificent creatures and how to catch them? Buses 246 or 256 stop at the Museum. There is an entry fee to this museum.

Whale Ecology Experience Aquarium – next to Jangsaenpo Whale Museum. The name kind of says it all – it’s an aquarium, and there are dolpins to be seen, if not actual whales in any of their tanks.

Oegosan Pottery Village – on Hwy 14 just outside of Onyang (not to be confused with Eonyang). The Onggi pot is a very important pot in Korean culture. It is not just used for making kimchi, but for storing many of the fermented foods that Koreans eat. Oegosan is big, traditional pottery making village. You can see the uphill kilns used for baking the pots, and see more pottery than you ever thought possible. For 7000 won, you can join in and take a pottery making class. Buses 225, 405, 507, 715 or 1705 go to Gosanmaeul, the stop closest to the village. If you’re driving, take Hwy 14 south. You’ll see the signs.

For those traveling from outside of Ulsan, hotels in Ulsan and hotels in Busan are a click away.

Diorama of Pottery Kiln

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By Deirdre Madden, November 2, 2011 7:59 am

Beginning this Friday, and running for just over 2 weeks, the Seoul Lantern Festival will be lighting up the Cheong gye cheon (stream) in Myeongdong.

This year is the third annual Lantern Festival in Seoul, and the theme will be the city’s long history and traditions. Over 30,000 lanterns will be placed in and around Cheong gye cheon, including displays from 25 countries, a ½ scale model of Namdaemun (the Great South Gate), and superheroes, like Batman, Superman and Robot Taekwon.

From Saturday, Nov. 5^th, the Gwanggyo Gallery will be running experience programs, such as crafts and lantern making.

The festival runs from Nov. 4^th – 20^th, from Cheong gye Plaza to Gwansu gyo (bridge). From Seoul Station, take subway line 1 two stops to Jonggak Stn, (it’s just past City Hall) and exit through #4 or 5. You can also take Line 2 to City Hall, exit #4, or Line 5 to Gwanghwanum Stn, exit #5.

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By Deirdre Madden, October 17, 2011 10:11 pm

You’ve seen them out there, kitted up in expensive“technical” clothing from hat to hiking boot, or visor-and-towel to hiking boot if they’re women. They carry walking sticks and backpacks full of soju. They are the Korean Hiker, and they are not to be trifled with. That tiny ajumma will beat you to the top of the mountain, drink several bottles of makkoli, and be back at the bottom while you’re still catching your breath.

Hiking has become a highly popular pastime in Korea in recent years. While the mountains here are hardly comparable to the Himalayas or the Rockies, there are some decent peaks to climb for the casual weekend warrior. Roughly 200 mountains across the country are over 1000 meters (3280 ft) high, and 15 have elevations over 1500 m (4921 ft).

It’s easy enough to get started. All you really need is a pair of sturdy shoes and a bottle of water, and you’re ready to hike most of the trails you’ll find around the city. The trails are usually well maintained and sign posted. In a country as densely populated as Korea, there are always other hikers out on the trails, and cell phone coverage everywhere, so getting lost isn’t as scary as it might be in the Canadian wilderness or the Australian outback.

There are more than 1700 hiking trails winding their way across the mountains of Korea, often passing cascading waterfalls, and beautiful vistas of misty rolling hills and rocky outcroppings. And the best thing is, you don’t have to go far to find one. Chances are there’s a forested hill in your neighbourhood covered with walking paths. If you live on the outskirts of the city, you’re probably no more than five minutes from a trail that could lead you miles away from civilization.

A crane in the Munsu stadium lake

Keep in mind that autumn is the most popular season for hiking in Korea, partly because the weather is cool, clear and sunny, and partly because of the changing colours of the leaves. This means that the mountain trails can become more crowded than a western shopping mall on Christmas Eve. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, avoid the “famous” peaks, like Hallasan, Jirisan and Seoraksan (san means mountain) during the height of fall colours. And like everywhere else in the country, Sundays tend to be the busiest day of the week, as most people don’t have to work.

From Munsusan, looking towards Ulsan, and the coast.

Where to go:

As mentioned above, there are endless options for hiking in Korea. Here are a few highlights:

Mount Seorak (서락산). 1,708 meters (5,603 ft). Located in Gangwando, near the city of Sokcho, Seoraksan is the highest peak in the Taebaek mountain range. It’s about as far north as you can go without hitting the DMZ. There is a unique rock formation on Mount Seorak called Ulsanbawi (Ulsan rock), that, according to legend, is actually from Ulsan. From Wikipedia:

“According to the legend Ulsanbawi comes from the city of Ulsan in the south east of Korea. As Kumgangsan (a mountain in North Korea – ed) was built, Ulsanbawi walked to the north as the representative of the city. Unfortunately Ulsanbawi arrived too late and there was no more room. Ulsanbawi was ashamed and slowly trudged back to the south. One evening the rock went to sleep in the Seorak area. Ulsanbawi felt it was so beautiful around there that it decided to stay for good.”

There is also Heundeulbawi, which is a spherical rock that everyone tries to push off its balancing point. http://english.knps.or.kr/Knp/Seoraksan/Intro/Introduction.aspx?MenuNum=1&Submenu=Npp

Jiri Mountain (지리산). 1,915 meters (6,283 ft). Jirisan is the highest peak in mainland Korea. The national park was the first of it’s kind in the country, and falls across three provinces; Jeollanamdo, Jeollabukdo and Gyeongsangnamdo. Apparently the name means “the mountain of the odd and wise people”. Located between Daegu and Gwangju, Jiri Mountain is a very popular hike during the fall colours season. Camping sites are available, as are shelters, but these likely need to be reserved well in advance during summer and autumn. http://english.knps.or.kr/Knp/Jirisan/Intro/Introduction.aspx?MenuNum=1&Submenu=Npp

Ilchulbong Crater, Jeju Island

Mount Gaji 1,240 meters (4068 ft). Gajisan is one of Ulsan’s 12 scenic sights, and is located between Eonyang (where the KTX station is) and Miryang. There are some beautiful temples nestled into Gajisan’s valleys; Daebisa, Unmunsa, Seokgolsa and Seoknamsa  runentirely by nuns), which function as the park and hiking trail entrances. Seoknamsa is the closest to Ulsan. To get there, take bus # 807 or 1713. Seoknamsa is the final stop on the route before it heads back into Eonyang and Ulsan.

Unmun Temple, on Gajisan

http://koreaclimbs.blogspot.com/2007/10/gajisan-provincial-park-basics.html

http://koreaclimbs.blogspot.com/2

007/08/gajisan-hiking-routes.html

Sinbul Mountain 1,209 meters (3,966 ft). Sinbulsan is home to other scenic sights of Ulsan. The silvery reed plains of pampas grass make the list, as does the Pareso waterfall. Danjobong peak is the head of a stream that cascades down the mountain side in a series of waterfalls. It also shelters Tongdo Temple and Tongdo Fantasia, the amusement park. The trails of Sinbulsan (sounds like Shinboolsan) also interconnect with Ganwolsan (1083m/3,553ft) and Yeongchwisan (510m/1,673ft). To hike Sinbulsan, take bus #323 from Eonyang Terminal and get off at the Ganwol Enterance.

http://visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1116194

To get to Pareso waterfall (pictured below), from Eonyang Terminal take a bus heading towards Baenaegol. For the upper section, get off at Icheon 1(il) gyo, and follow a steep path for 2.5km. For the lower section, get off at the last stop, and walk 2 km. The bus schedule can be found here, along with other park information: http://visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=615952

Munsu Mountain 1,205 meters (3,956 ft). Munsusan cradles the neighbourhoods of Mugeodong and Cheonsang, and is by far the most accessible mountain (that’s over 1km high) for Ulsanites to hike. There are multiple trailheads to be found in the areas behind Ulsan University, Cheonsang’s apartment complexes, or up the small roads that lead off Highway 14 (heading towards Napodong in Busan). Munsusan is also home to Munsu Temple, where you can eat a free, vegetarian lunch with the monks if youarrive at noon on the weekend. There’s also a very friendly, though non-English speaking, Buddhist hermit who lives in a series of huts and tents over by the rock climbing crags. Oh,and there’s someexcellent rock climbing to be had, if that’s your thing. Three different faces, with routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.14, though most aren’t very tall. For more info, check out the rock climbing article here: http://www.ulsanonline.com/Sports%20&%20Rec/rock_climbing.html

What you need:

Although most trails are well maintained, there are rocky bits, and roots all over, so it’s best to wear sensible, sturdy footwear. Sneakers will be good enough for most trails, though hiking shoes or boots are best. And while you may pass women wearing high heels, I don’t recommend them. The good news is that because Koreans love hiking so much, you can find footwear everywhere (as long as your feet aren’t bigger than most Korean men’s).

Bring water. People always underestimate how much water they’ll need on a hike. Most of the hiking tips websites recommend about two litres per person per day, (or about half a gallon for the metrically impaired). Don’t count on there being places to refill or buy water, either. While you may come across a pop machine or shop in the middle of the woods (I’m not kidding, it’s possible) it’s not likely.

Bring some food, too. Again, people tend to underestimate how long they’ll be gone, and how much energy it takes. Pack a few Dr. You bars, sandwiches, or kimbap. It’s better to come back with it in your pack than to start feeling hungry and run-down miles from nowhere.

In the age of smart phones and GPS, it’s far less likely that you’ll get lost, but having a map of your route is always a good idea. And remember to charge your phone before you go, so if anything does go wrong, you can call for help. Korea’s cell phone coverage is pretty amazing, so even in the most remote areas, you should have reception.

It’s a good idea to pack a jacket or sweater even if you’re hiking in the summer. Weather can change unpredictably in the mountains, and even if it’s sunny and hot down below, it can suddenly get cold, windy or rainy on the mountain-top. By fall, it’s possible, if unlikely, to get snow even as far south as on Gajisan. It’s better to be prepared for the worst.

Bring a camera – the views can be incredible.

Bring money – just in case.

And don’t forget the sunscreen and bug repellant.

Over 70% of the Korean peninsula is mountainous, so go take a hike and explore the natural beauty the country has to offer.

Seoknamsa on Gajisan

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By Deirdre Madden, September 8, 2011 5:58 am

Perhaps you’ve only just arrived in Korea, and have not yet saved your shipwons for a trip abroad, or perhaps Chuseok’s early arrival this year (it’s usually in late Sept to early Oct) threw you off, and you didn’t have a chance to book tickets. Whatever your reason, here are some suggestions of places to go in the area to make the most of your time off. Most of these are easiest to reach by car or motorcycle. For bus routes, check the Ulsan Online bus page.

Ulsan Museum – Newly opened, the Ulsan Museum is located near Gonguptap Rotary and Ulsan Grand Park’s main gates. Read Jason’s excellent article here for more information.

Ulsan Petroglyph Museum – This one is harder to get to, as it’s way out in Ulju-gun. The museum explores life in this area during the Neolithic period, when cave men in canoes were out catching whales. It also examines the Bangudae petroglyphs in detail. The real petroglyphs are now under water, so this is as close to the real thing as you can get.

Petroglyphs at Bangudae

Cheonjeonri petroglyphs – Way down a little back road (so of more interest to those with vehicles or excellent cyclists) there are actual petroglyphs on actual rocks, in a picturesque setting beside a river. There are also dinosaur footprints on the other side of the river. Nice spot for a picnic. The easiest way to get there by bus is to head out to the Eonyang bus terminal, and then take 308, 308-1, 313, 313-1, 318, 318-1 or 318-2. If you’re driving, take the road from Guyeongli out towards Dudong. On your way you’ll pass a sign pointing you down a little back road to the petroglyphs. Follow that for a while, keeping your eyes open for further signs.

At Cheonjeonri a peaceful stream curls around the petroglyphs on the left and dinosaur prints on the right

Cheonjeonri Petroglyphs

Gyeongju – just 45 mins – 1 hour away, Gyeongju is the ancient capital of the Shilla Dynasty, which unified the kingdoms of the Korean peninsula into one nation. It’s a trove of national treasures, with the burial mounds of kings, a National Museum, Bulguksa (temple) and Seokoram grotto to mention a few highlights. Gyeongju also has a large recreational area, with an amusement park, rental scooters and atvs, swan boats and all those other fun things to do. You can take trains, buses, or drive up on the free highways 7 and 35, or the express highway 1.

GyeongJu Unification Hall

Splendid views are easy to find is historic, picturesque Gyeongju

Jinha Beach – Though it’s a bit of a trek out of town through the Petrochemical Industrial Complex, Jinha is a pretty little sandy beach, bordered by restaurants and shops. Up behind the town is the old Japanese fortress. While only the walls remain, it’s an interesting place to check out, and it’s very pretty as it’s filled with persimmon trees. Take the 405, 715, or 1715 buses from Ulsan, or drive out on either highway 14 or 31.

Jeongja Beach – On the north side of the city, you’ll find Jeongja beach, famous for it’s black pebbles. Most of the beaches on Ulsan’s northern coast are pebbly rather than sandy, which makes them better for picnics (no sand blowing into your sandwich) and less crowded. There’s also a large fish market and a fishing harbour to explore. If you have a vehicle, the drive up the coast road from Ulsan to Pohang (and farther, if you feel like it) is quite beautiful. From highway 7, take 31 out over the mountains, and follow the signs. From Donggu, drive up over the mountain behind Nammock. Or take buses 137, 411 or 421.

Ilsan Beach/Daewangam  – One of the easiest places to get to on the list, Ilsan Beach is in Donggu, between Bangeojin and the Hyundai Department Store. In recent years, Ilsan has undergone quite the facelift, and now the beach is lined with trendy coffee shops and restaurants. The end that used to be crowded with fishing boats and shacks has also been cleaned up to make way for pleasure craft, and what looks like it might become a marina. On the opposite end, the Pine Forest leads out along the cliffs to Daewangam, fabled home of Queen Munmu, who after death became a sea-dragon to guard the country from attack, much like her husband, King Munmu, who’s watery tomb is farther up the coast, near Gyeongju. As it’s a stop on the way to the Ggottbawi bus terminal, many buses pass Ilsan beach, like the 102, 103, and 401. Check the Ulsanonline.com bus guide to find the best one for you.

Some of the many shops lining Ilsan Beach in Dong-Gu

Ilsan Beach is sandy and calm with a beautiful pine forest protecting the southern boundary

Busan – There are 3 ways to take public transportation to Busan. Take a slow train or bus to Haeundae Beach , a bus to Nopodong or the KTX to Busan Station, in the heart of the city. Haeundae is a very popular area, filled with restaurants serving non-Korean food and lots of bars that are popular with ex-pats. It also has a lovely stretch of beach, that at the height of the summer season can host over 1 million people per day. Haeundae Beach is also on the subway line, and is close to the Busan Museum of Modern Art; BEXCO, the giant exhibition hall; and Centum City, the world’s largest department store.

Nopodong is the end of subway line 1. It’s also close to Beomeosa, a Buddhist temple nestled in one of Busan’s inner-city mountains, which means there’s lots of hiking around the area. Busan Station is a few subway stops from Nampodong, the main shopping area of Busan, which has both upscale brands and side streets crammed with carts selling all kinds of knock offs for a quarter of the price. Jalgachi Fish Market, the largest in Korea  (maybe even Asia?) is just around the corner. Nampodong is home to the Busan International Film Festival, and has a thriving bar scene at night.

Just drive around! – If you have a car or motorcycle, or even a bicycle, there are so many little things to discover tucked away down the back roads all around Ulsan. Get out of the city and just head into the country side. Not only is this a beautiful place to explore, but you can find all kinds of temples, historic monuments and places of interest tucked into the hills and valleys. And since Korea does pretty well with road-signs, it’s pretty easy to find your way back home again without too much hassle.

Just driving around examples of beautiful Korea are abundant

Ulsan has a lot to offer, if only you can take the time to get out there and find it.

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By admin, August 16, 2011 6:35 pm

When planning a trip to Gyeongju, one usually considers the famous historical sites such as Bulguksa, Seogurum or the National Musuem.  But a not-to-be-missed tourist site is the Love Castle. Styled after the famous Love Museum on Jeju Island, the Love Castle provides both historical and contemporary artworks celebrating the act of love.

From ancient Korean pottery and bronze through the Joseon period and on to today’s  somewhat sexually repressed culture, the Love Castle presents love actually, as it happens and as it was portrayed. They have a large assemblage of artifacts from around Korea but also from other cultures around the world, which just goes to show you that there isn’t much of anything under the sun that’s new. You likely won’t find anything useful if you’re looking for how-to information. But then, in the internet age, if you haven’t found what you’re looking for already you aren’t trying hard enough.

Pottery from nearby Japan shows love is nothing new

The Love Castle carries an eclectic array of sexual artwork, some of it quite beautiful and some of it very sophomoric. Some of the artwork is stunningly beautiful and tastefully done, while some, well, isn’t. I found some of it to be a little like middle-school boys’ room wall art. It is can sometimes be faithful reproductions of the real thing, but more often garish,  oversized  and fantasy-laced. But considering how outwardly bridled the Korean culture is with regards to sex relative to western cultures, it’s not surprising to see it manifest itself in all its gaudy, bawdy and tawdry forms.

Sexual tastes differ, but I found this to be one of the more tasteful pieces of art (pardon the puns)

Despite the sometimes low-brow art, it’s an enjoyable way to spend an hour or two on a lazy afternoon. 9k won will buy you a ticket to the museum which features indoor and outdoor exhibits such as the Car Sex Zone and the Naughty Valley. At the end of the tour there is the must-have of every musuem: the gift shop. As you might imagine, this shop is filled with all of the toys adults these days might wish to include in their bedroom (or car) fun. The gift-shop alone is worth the trip as many of these items are nearly impossible to find anywhere else.

Some of the artwork is fun. And just like the girls, I did not want to see it either.

Cutesy, stylized genitalia is pervasive in the museum

I found it hard not to enjoy washing my hands when sidling up to this sink in the mens bathroom

Look for this sign on the right of the highway to find the Love Castle

To get to the Love Castle, take Highway 7 from Ulsan to GyeongJu. Follow the signs up road 11 from Bulguksa Station towards Bomun Resort. The Love Castle is near the folkcraft village and Shilla Arts and Science Museum and across from Honors Country Club.  The train to Bulguksa Station is a nice alternative to the bus, but be sure and get a taxi at the station as they are hard to catch elsewhere in the city.

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By admin, June 7, 2011 8:28 pm

This time of year the call of the outdoors is strong. Getting out of the concrete jungle in which  most of us live is a fine way to recharge the psychological batteries. Of course Korea’s excellent public transportation system makes it relatively easy to move around the country, but the best way to see the real beauty of Korea is to take the lesser traveled roads. And you can’t do that on a bus or train. And sometimes, even a car is difficult.  So for my money, there’s no finer way of getting out than on two wheels.

With the wind in your face, the sun on your back and the thrum and rumble of a motor between your legs a scooter or motorcycle provides freedom from the confines of the city.  An “autobi” (오도바이) as the Koreans call them, is a very inexpensive way to move about Korea. In the heavier travel times such as flower season, vacation times or fall color season, the two-wheelers can avoid the traffic jams by simply going around all the cars and buses. Side roads become opportunities for adventure. U-turns, should that adventurous side road  become a dead-end, are as easy as a military about-face.

Recently, I and several friends went on a Rock-Scissors-Paper tour. At major intersections we would decide our direction with Korea’s most common decision making tool.  Our destination was of less interest than the journey itself. But it allowed us to see places that buses, trains and taxis can’t or won’t go.

A view of Dudong in Ulju-gun in northwest Ulsan

I took this (badly stitched) panoramic set of pictures after we rode some tiny roads near Cheokgwa on the far north edge of Ulju-gun. To get there, we went out of Daundong on highway 14 and then took farm roads through small villages to arrive at a peak no buses and few taxis will ever go. Towards the left side of the photo are the “Relics of Park Jesang”, an historical shrine to a Korean hero from one of the many Japanese invasions of the peninsula. Just 100 meters away, however, was Suwangsa, a rare and beautiful find that is on no map and no buses will take you to. We would never have found that were it not for our trusty two-wheelers.

From there, our journey wandered throughout the countryside to where ever rock-scissors-paper decisions  led us. We saw verdant mountains, steep valleys, rugged coastlines, colorful temples, houses both humble and haughty and never once were we caught in heavy traffic or waited in line. Additionally, I’ve found that Koreans in the smaller communities in the country are not used to seeing foreigners come riding through their towns and they have, so far, been very kind, polite and helpful.

Friends (from left) Rocy, Dee, Fin and Ryan help make the directional decisions

And while I have many more pictures I could post, none can really compare to the beauty of being there. So often during the ride I heard my own voice inside my helmet exclaiming how fabulous this view is or how beautiful that house is or how colorful those flowers are.  I’m no photographer and prefer to look at my own pictures simply to remind me of the beauty I saw.  I strongly encourage you, dear reader, to make your own forays -and memories- into the countryside to experience the beauty of this wonderful country.

Scooters, motorcycles and bicycles are relatively cheap to obtain. For less than half a month’s salary  a decent used two-wheeler can be found at any number of shops.  We have some favorite shops, however. Click on our Partner page for a good place to get a set of wheels. It’s a relatively cheap way to gain freedom from the concrete jungle and see the real Korea.

And, if you get a set of wheels now, you’ll be ready for the most fun possible on two-wheels: the Ulsan Inferno, a bike/scooter/motorcycle photo scavenger hunt extravaganza that has been an annual tradition for years. That happens June 18th and is a not-to-be-missed event.

So, get out of the city. Get out of the concrete jungle.  Get off the beaten paths. Go far from the madding crowds. Add your own overused metaphors. And as Robert Frost once wrote:

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.

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By admin, June 7, 2011 5:10 am

by Deirdre Madden

It all started about 7 years ago. A bunch of waygook English teachers were sitting around, trying to come up with something fun to do for a friend’s birthday. This particular friend didn’t drink, and wasn’t much into partying in bars, but back home in Canada he’d been involved in rally racing. That’s where you and a navigator get a map and some coordinates and time limits to get from A to B to C in a car that may or may not be rigged out with lots of headlights.

Planning the routes

Here in Korea, everyone was driving little 50cc or 125cc scooters, so they decided to do a photo-scavenger-hunt scooter rally. And so the Inferno was born.

The first year, the goal was to get to the 12 Scenic Sites of Ulsan and they had 8 hours in order to complete the mission. Only one team made it to all 12 sites and back in the 8-hour time limit, but everyone involved had a lot of fun.

So the next year, they did it again. And that year, they invited anyone with a motorbike or a scooter to get involved. It proved so popular that the tradition continued long after most of the original riders had returned to their various home countries. One year there were about 30 bikes, and 45 riders and passengers zipping all over the country side, taking wacky photos of themselves in an attempt to score points and win the event.

heading out en masse

Last year, the Inferno opened up even wider, to include non-motorized bikes for the first time. A team of four or five cyclists joined in the mayhem, along with a confused Korean man, who joined in at the train station starting point without really understanding what was going on, but happy to be on a bike ride with some foreigners. He ended up getting caught up in the spirit of the day, and being one of the most enthusiastic participants.

This year, the Inferno will be taking place on Saturday, June 18th. At 11:00 am we will meet at the Taehwagang Train Station, and setting out on the group ride up to the official starting point. From there, teams will have until 4pm to visit as many sites as they can (the lists and maps will be given out that morning) and score as many bonus points for creativity or random challenges. Photos must be taken at all sites visited and for all bonus points claimed, with every team member (except the photographer) involved.

Points are scored for each listed site you visit, based on your size of bike and how far it is from the end point of the rally. This way, bicycles don’t have to go as far and as fast as 400cc motorcycles.

At 4pm, everyone meets back at the Taehwagang Station (points are deducted if you’re late!) to hand in team score sheets and memory cards (don’t worry, they’re taken care of and returned to you after the photos have been taken for the slideshow).

Creativity counts when recording you have reached a marker

At 8pm, we all meet back at Cima Bar for the After Party – to which everyone is invited, whether or not they took place in the event. There will be drinks specials, bbq’d food and a raffle. At the After Party, awards will be given out and a slideshow of the day’s adventures will be screened so everyone can see what the other teams got up to.

If you have a bicycle, scooter or motorcycle, sign up for the Inferno (ulsanonline.com/inferno) or (www.ulsaninferno.com). It’s the most fun you can have on two wheels, and it’s a great way to get out and explore the area around Ulsan. You can discover all kinds of weird and wonderful things tucked into the mountains and coastline around this city.

If you’re interested, come down to Benchwarmer’s Bar on Saturday, June 11th for the Registration Party. You can meet other riders, form teams, ask questions and be inspired by past Inferno pictures and videos, all while enjoying cheap beer and chili dogs!

It’s going to be a great time – don’t miss it!

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By Jason Teale, May 23, 2011 7:31 pm

One of the most beautiful of the 12 scenic sights of Ulsan has to be Jakgwaecheon. With the beautiful background of the Yeongnam Alps, Jakgwaecheon is a great place to relax and enjoy the fresh air.

Jakgwaecheon has a long history and interesting history. Upon arriving alongside the stream, you’ll notice the writing on the smooth flowing rocks. According to the sign, sadly it is all in Korean, the words are from poetry contests and the names of the winners are etched in the rocks.  Stated in the mish-mash of poorly written English in the Ulsan tour map, “it is a place where Poeun Chung, Mong-ju a loyal liege from Goryo – read books”

This area was also the staging ground for the March 1st Movement for the Eonyang region. In less troubled times it also served as an open-air Roman-Catholic church and as a place for scholars and poetic to come and craft their work.

These days it is a place where families come to play in the clean waters and have picnics. Unfortunately, at times litter distracts from the history and natural beauty of the area. During my trip I repeatedly picked up trash so that I could get some unobstructed shots. It was sad to see so many careless people left bbq grills and trash between the rocks and  in the water.

Nevertheless, it is still worth seeing. The natural beauty of the region will make you relaxed. If you are looking for a nice place to sit and have a family picnic, this is a popular place to go, maybe too popular at times.

Getting there: Buses 327, 337, and 1723 will get you to the entrance. If you are travelling by car or scooter, head out to Eonyang via hwy #24. Once in Eonyang turn left on hey 35 (the main road that connects to the Kyongbu expressway). Follow the road a short ways and turn right just before the Megarmart.