The Hungry Kitchen
Ulsan, a city of more than 1 million people, often feels small despite its size. One reason for this may be the historic rarity of non-Korean food available in the city. While the country’s largest cities offer plenty of options for the hungry wae-guk-en looking for foreign flavors, Ulsan has, for many years, been a bit behind the curve. The streets here are lined with remarkably similar Korean restaurants, and attempts at western foods have been somewhat awkward (Why is there corn in my linguini?). Recent years have brought progress however, and the quality of western food available in Ulsan seems to be steadily on the rise. And so we have The Hungry Kitchen, a no-nonsense, hearty comfort-food establishment in the heart of Mugeo-dong.
It should be said right away that The Hungry Kitchen is not a completely original idea. The chain of Segoa and Cook restaurants and others offer a similar style and taste. However, owner and head chef Im Seong-Hwan created a unique and superior experience when he gave The Hungry Kitchen its characteristically homey atmosphere. Contrary to the sleek, modern look of Seoga and Cook, the Hungry Kitchen is cozy, warm and inviting. This difference extends to the food as well, as presentation, while not ignored, is favored less than hearty taste. The distinction is immediately clear, as a meal here starts as simply as possible- with a variety of freshly made bread. Fresh dinner rolls and cornbread are the everyday staples, but they may be joined at any time by biscuits, rye bread, garlic bread, or French bread. The Hungry Kitchen’s bread, one of the restaurant’s most distinctive features, lays the foundation for the meal to follow and is indicative of the quality of food that can be expected from appetizer to entrée.
The menu is straight forward, offering customers pastas, risottos, pilafs, steak dishes, and the best cheeseburger I’ve had in this country. The pastas are divided into cream and tomato based sauces. The standouts here are delicious basil and pesto chicken cream pasta and the “giant meatball” spaghetti, which earns its name with two oversized, cheese-stuffed meatballs. Pastas will cost customers 18,000₩ and come in portions big enough to satisfy two very hungry diners.
One of the real pleasure s of eating at the Hungry Kitchen is the “salad” portion of the menu. Here you’ll find pork, hamburger, bacon shrimp, and bacon asparagus salads, but don’t be fooled by the moniker, the actual salad is an afterthought to the heaping portions of meat. The pork and hamburger are both tender and deliciously marinated and the bacon comes skewered and in large quantities. The salad too, is delicious and it is a pleasure to eat the dark romaine lettuce topped with great homemade vinaigrette. There is also a massive Cobb salad available in this portion of the menu, which, along with French toast, completes the vegetarian selections at the Hungry Kitchen. The star of the show here is meat of various types and flavors, all of it delicious. These meals will serve two and range in price from 18,000₩ to 20,000₩.
If you were to eat only one meal at the Hungry Kitchen I would recommend the 12,000 ₩ “Hungry Cheeseburger.” A good burger can be distressingly hard to find in Ulsan and even the best burgers in town tend to come with an amendment: “Yeah, it’s good, for Korea.” No longer though, as the Hungry Kitchen successfully alters Ulsan’s burger landscape with this enormous cheeseburger. A huge handmade patty placed between a perfect bun, topped with fresh tomato, lettuce, and onion is a great way to start. A fantastic cheese sauce finishes things off and makes the “Hungry Cheeseburger” a pleasure to eat- wherever you may be.
The Hungry Kitchen then is an excellent restaurant with a comfortable atmosphere and a wide selection of hearty, delicious food. There is plenty to look forward to as well, as Chef Im plans to change and add to the menu every three months. There is also a friendly, welcoming staff and Red Rock beer on tap, making The Hungry Kitchen a terrific place to eat in the company of some of your hungriest friends.
The Hungry Kitchen is located in Mugeodong’s Ulsan University area . With Wa Bar on your right turn left down the street opposite and look for the all brick exterior on the left. The name is written in English. Open daily for lunch and dinner from 12:00pm to 11:00pm with a break taken from 4:00 to 5:30.
Photos courtesy of Adele Changuion










































