Jason Teale
Ulsan. A city where steel meets the sea, where industry hums like a restless beast, belching fire and smoke into the night sky. It’s a place that thrives on grit and perseverance, a city of relentless labor, of ships and oil refineries. But beneath that hardened exterior, there’s a softer, beating heart. You just have to know where to look.
Tucked away near the Taehwa River National Garden, far from the cacophony of neon-lit coffee chains and influencer-driven cafés, lies “그래도, 책” Geuredo Cheak—a small bookshop cafe that stands as a testament to passion and perseverance. It’s the kind of place you stumble upon, and suddenly, the world feels a little less chaotic.
The first time I walked into Geuredo Cheak, I had no expectations—just a vague curiosity and a love for bookshops that haven’t been sterilized by corporate hands like the Kyobo in the basement of UpSquare. I was greeted by Joy (Kim Hyung Eun), the owner, whose enthusiasm is infectious, her warmth as genuine as the pages lining her shelves. We talked about books, about learning Korean, about life in Ulsan. She didn’t just sell books; she curated experiences, offering an oasis of thought in a city obsessed with motion.
This isn’t your typical bookstore. There are no endless walls of bestsellers, no marketing gimmicks. Instead, it’s an intimate, carefully curated collection of books in both Korean and English. A nook where you can sit, sip a barley coffee, and lose yourself in literature. In a world where coffee shops have become loud, soulless Instagram backdrops, Geuredo Cheak is a refuge—a place of solace, of quiet discovery.
Take a listen to Brian and Nate’s conversation with Joy to get a feeling of just how wonderful Joy is and also gain a better understanding of what Geuredo Cheak is all about. If you haven’t already, subscribe to This Korean Life and learn a little more about this amazing people in this area.
Keeping a small bookstore alive in an era dominated by algorithms and next-day delivery giants is a battle of sheer will. It is not always easy for small business owners like Joy to keep the doors open. She works hard to make sure that her little shop is always open and welcoming to anyone that comes through the door. She teaches Korean on weekends, commuting to Busan to share her language and culture with eager students.
Here’s the truth: places like Geuredo Cheak only survive if we choose to support them. If we step away from our screens, walk through that door, buy a book, and sit down with a cup of coffee. It’s easy to let these spaces disappear, to assume they’ll always be there. But without us, they won’t be.
So, as the weather warms, take an afternoon. Visit Geuredo Cheak. Say hello to Joy. Buy a book. Sit, sip, and let yourself be reminded of what a bookstore should be—a place that connects us, that reminds us why stories matter. Because in a city of industry, sometimes the greatest act of rebellion is simply to slow down and read.
Where to find Geuredo Cheak
Address: 울산 중구 신기4길 18
Hours: 화~일 Tue – Sun 10:30 ~ 20:00 (closed Mondays)
